If all you care about is DD or DTS you DO NOT need to upgrade your Amp, your existing one will be fine. If you want to take advantage of th new Lossless audio (which is bit by bit identical to how it sounds in the studio) you may need a new Amp.
Lossy audio: DD, DD+, DTS or DTS-HD HR
Lossless audio: PCM, Dolby TrueHD or DTS-HD MA
PCM Audio (found on BD) is different from TrueHD or DTS-HD as it's already Uncompressed RAW audio and as such any Player/Amp with HDMI or Analogue will fully support it. Think of PCM as an Audio CD and TrueHD/DTS-HD as an MP3 file (although MP3 happens to be Lossy), they're codecs.
The complications arise with TrueHD and then more so again with DTS-HD. "Most" Players/Amps that support DTS-HD MA also support DTS-HD HR.
Audio can be decoded in two ways:
1. On-board: The Player does the decoding and sends it out a PCM, at whatever bitrate. PCM is the Universal standard for RAW audio
2. Bitstream: The Player sends it in binary form and the Amp decodes it as PCM
* Optical/Coaxial are always Bitstreamed
* 5.1 Analogue/7.1 Analogue (6 or 8 RCA Phonos) is on-board only
* HDMI supports both
Analogue outputs aren't the best connection as they're well analogue but they do support signifanctly high bitrates (such as Lossless audio) to Optical/Coaxial, which only support up to 1.5Mbps. Making them very handy for older Amps.
* Optical/Coaxial Amps: DD, DD+ or DTS only (many players can convert TrueHD/PCM/DTS-HD to DTS or DD)
* Analogue Amps: All formats provided the Player can decode the format on-board
* HDMI 1.0 to 1.2 Amps: DD, DD+ or DTS Bitsream or On-board. DTS-HD HR, DTS-HD MA, TrueHD provided the Player can on-board decode them.
* HDMI 1.3+ Amps: All formats on-board or Bitstream. Only HDMI 1.3+ is capable of bitstreaming DTS-HD HR, DTS-HD MA or TrueHD
As far as HDMI is concerned you need version 1.3 to Bitstream all formats. If the Player does the decoding Analogue OR HDMI 1.0+ is fine as it's already been decoded.
Playstation 3: HDMI 1.2 (I think) hence why it on-board decodes all formats, so even if your Amp also supports DTS-HD/TrueHD the lights will never come on because it will never be sent anything but PCM. Because the PS3 on-board decodes all formats any Amp with HDMI will give you full bitrate audio (Lossy or Lossless), the version isn't important.
Most Standalone Players: DD/DD+/DTS: Bitstream or On-board, TrueHD: Bitstream or On-board, DTS-HD HR/MA: Bitstream only (i.e - you need an HDMI 1.3 Amp)
The Panasonic DMP-BD50 is unique (I think) in that it can Bitstream
or On-board decode all Audio formats, ultimate choice!
On-board is technically better as Bitstream isn't compatible with PIP commentaries but many people prefer their amp do the decoding. If you use Optical/Coaxial on your DVD Player this is how it will always be sent. From a technical point of view there is no difference to the Player or the Amp decoded it, at the end it all ends up as PCM.
I know on my DVD Player I much preferred the quality of Bitstream than On-board of DD and DTS. I could also then use the Amps DSP enhancements too.
Analogue is handy as it allows you to use a pre-HDMI Amp but still get all the lossless audio codecs.
For me: My Sony Amp has Optical, Coaxial or Analogue. No HDMI. The Samsung BD-UP5000 Combo Player HDMI, Optical or Analogue but the LG BH200 Combo Player has proven to be the better player and as it doesn't have Analogue outputs I use Optical and set the player to convert everything to Full-rate 1.5Mbps DTS, on HD-DVD/BD (DVD is unaffected). This means except for 640Kbps DD I always get a minimum of Full-Rate DTS. Both the Samsung BD-UP5000 and LG BH200 are Profile 1.1 and support TrueHD/DTS HD MA.
If I was to buy a new Amp I'd make sure it has at least HDMI
1.3 (and supports TrueHD/DTS-HD MA). In the long term HDMI 1.3+ will be the only consideration!
HDMI versions can be seen here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hdmi#Versions
The current version is HDMI 1.3b1, but as you can see nothing has been added of significance since HDMI 1.3.
I hope that helps. To think Salty reckons I'm clueless about High Definition

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Markgway wrote:Yeah, I think 1.1 would do me as far as profiles go... I wouldn't pay more for a 2.0 put it that way.
It's worth paying a bit more for (say £50) but not a lot, if only to make it future proof. I'd pay much more for Profile 2.0, but then I pay much more for my kit than most people would.
Right now there are several Profile 1.1 players but Profile 2.0 literally is only the players mentioned in the first post of this thread.